January Spring :-(

 After an unseasonably mild holiday season, we finally got snow this past weekend - enough that I finally had a nice x-c ski on Monday. So much for winter, for now at least. After a day of heavy rain the snow is all but gone and the temperature today was in the fiftys. Spent most of the day taking care of downed branches and trees that had been damaged by the heavy snow. When cutting up the branches of the top of a small tree that had broken off in the storm, I noticed something very disconcerting: tiny buds - tiny buds on January 10th in Massachusetts. Not a good sign! The rule of thumb used to be one could bring forsythia into the house in mid February, put it in warm water and after several days it would bloom. The buds on my forsythia are already tender. What is happening to the fruit trees? Hoping that 2024 won't be even hotter than 2023.*

*"BRUSSELS, Jan 9 (Reuters) - Last year was the planet's hottest on record by a substantial margin and likely the world's warmest in the last 100,000 years, the European Union's Copernicus Climate Change Service (C3S) said on Tuesday."

Avocado TIp - Keep It Greener!

 About a year ago I read somewhere that cutting an avocado with a ceramic knife rather than a stainless steel one would minimize the browing effect. If I remembered the exact source, I would give due credit,  but there is currently lots of support for this on the internet. After many avocadoes, I've decided that unlike the tightly wrap, rub with lemon juice, keep the pit in theories - this really works!                                

Freshly cut avocado.

Same avocado 28 hours later after being lightly covered and stored in a closed container.  I know,  I should have done a control comparison using a stainless steel knife, but knowing how well the ceramic knife works, I didn't want to trash an avocado.

Avocado cut for lunch then stored wrapped as shown above. Opened the following morning (19 hours later) and cut for avocodo toast.

Looking for a Recipe --- Easter Brioche

The virtues of being a messy cook..... The main purpose of this blog is to organize family recipes, particularly those associated with a special occasion. Alex called a few days ago, surprised the recipe for the "brioche" I used to serve on Easter was not on my blog and asked if I could find it. We haven't had a family Easter morning in many years and it is too buttery a loaf for just Ed and me so I hadn't made the bread in a long time. Even so, I was pretty sure I could find this recipe. Among other things, I kept lists of favorite recipes at the start of each section in my old paper notebook. Oops, no "Brioche" under BREAD.

I thought it was in one of my New York Times cookbooks, but checking all three, I found two brioche recipes ("American" and "French") but both were spotless, no notes, no spilled ingredients and no lingering bookmark.  Very unusual for a recipe I had made so often.  Both recipes called for refrigerating the dough overnight and the "French" recipe called for placing the dough in a bowl, covering with lukewarm water, and letting rise until the ball floats in the water.  I don't remember either technique.

The brioche recipe in The Silver Palate Cookbook was also suspiciously clean, but if I had compared recipes I probably would have chosen it because it used less butter, eggs and sugar than the Times recipes.  None of the recipes suggest braiding the brioche, rather baking in muffin tins or brioche molds (with a top knot of dough), or in loaf pans. Then  I realized I had not checked  The Art of French Cooking. No brioche. In fact I was surprised to find the only entries under bread are "preparation of" (as in cutting off the crusts and making toasted bread cases), "crumbs", "croutes", and "rounds". Viva la Boulangerie!

Photos top to bottom 1994, 1995, 1996

There is always the possibility I used the Christmas Stollen recipe. This recipe is covered with ingredients and notes, for many years I've made this just using raisins (not candied fruit) and the Easter "Brioche" does contain raisins (something lacking in all of the above mentioned brioche recipes).  I checked all my paper recipe collections but am going to keep looking for the recipe with the tell-tale spills and notes (like add raisins, braid). Meanwhile Alex may find her own recipe and I'll add a new potentially traditional recipe to Cook's Cache.





Reviewed 5/8/17

Make Strawberry Stains Vanish

Ever take a toddler strawberry picking, or for that matter give the toodler warm, juicy strawberries to eat?  The delightful result is a trickle of strawberry juice out the corners of the mouth and down the front of the shirt.  When Henry recently decorated his shirt with red strawberry juice, Alex said not to worry just pour boiling water over the stains.  Hot water removes strawberry stains!

I felt like a magician! On contact with boiling water the stains vanished.  Alex advises, DO NOT use any soap or other stain remover on the fabric before applying the hot water. If other treatments are used prior to the hot water, the stains will not dissappear.

Wish I had known this trick last Christmas when strawberry juice from our Strawberry Shortcake ended up on my white table cloth.
And, I must confess this technique also worked well on my clothes after a recent morning of strawberry picking.
Reviewed 9/20/2017

Baby Food

I started this post over a year ago prompted by 2 articles in the October 8 New York Times Magazine (Food Issue), a visit to Portland where our grandson Henry was just beginning to eat solid food, and a vist to the Portland Farmer's Market.

At the time, October 2014, I wrote:

With babies and then children it is all about good choices when it comes to food. Since this had been on my mind again, I found these two articles particularly relevant.

Getting Your Kids to Eat (or at least Try) Everything
Rise and Shine What kids around the world eat for breakfast

When we were in Portland last week we were waiting for coffee at a small shop enroute to the Farmer's Market, a favorite destination whenever I am in Portland.  A man and two small boys were at a table near us..The man had a moderately healthy looking breakfast sandwich and coffee. The boys each had a very sugary looking pastry and pink sugary drinks. After indulging in more than one almond croissant at Ken's during the past week I was in no position to be critical. However, when I was enjoying a delicious local veggies brunch at the Farmers Market (photo left) an hour later I could not help thinking about the scene at the coffee shop and all the healthy alternatives that for the same price or less now surrounded me.

Our grandson, Henry, is beginning to eat solid food and I am delighted (but not surprised) to see the wonderful meals his mom, Alexandra (1980 photo top left), is preparing for him.  I remember making pureed chicken (put chicken and a bit of broth in a food processor and process until smooth), pureed carrots (likewise carrots and water) and a few other pedestrian offerings for Alexandra and later Christopher. To store, I would fill an ice cube tray and freeze.  Alex does the same but with many more foods including Oregon plums, apples, peaches, as well as spinach and peas (not Henry's favorite) and freezes the pureed food in ice cube trays that come with their own top.  Feeding Alex in a pre-microwave era I heated the food in an egg coddler.

Henry is feeding himself at an early age.  This is the tend, Alex tells me. In fact some of Henry's friends have gone straight from nursng to "finger foods".  At the time of my visit to Portland avocadoes were a real favorite.

Alex also cooks pieces of carrotts and pears until they are tender and then gives Henry the pieces to eat.

Flash forward a year later, Henry has left his Portland daycare and, with his parents, is living with us until they find a house in the Boston area. I am making his lunches before he heads off to nursery school/daycare. Mindful that his old daycare provided healthy meals and tried to introduce many new foods I try (sort of) to maintain that goal.

Hummus is a hit. But while his mom and uncle dipped celery and carrotts in the hummus, Henry likes to eat it with a spoon. The token carrot or celery stick I packed with the hummus came home untouched.  Since food is about color and how it is presented, it was hard for me to pack just a blob of hummus.  I had some fresh pomegranate seeds in the fridge and put some on top.  The snack box came home empty and since then Henry has enjoyed many more hummus-pomegranate lunches.

Other favorites are grilled cheese sandwich, cut in small cubes, (left), Baked Beans, Apple Keam (but without the keme for school), Meat Loaf, plain whole milk yogurt mixed with blueberries, pancakes, string cheese, and almost any fruit.

Toddlers will have a favorite food and then (temporairly) refuse to eat it, most often right after a large supply of the "favorite food" has been purchased. Happend with avocadoes, happened with grilled cheese sandwiches and cheese-spinach omlettes. Henry is now eating avocadoes again, though her prefers them in Guacamole,

Listen to your toddler. After Henry started eating cheese omlettes again, Alex offered him a cheese-spinach omlette. Not such a hit. A few weeks later Henry and I had grilled cheese sandwiches for lunch, or actually I had a grilled cheese and arugula sandwich. Henry looked at my sandwich and immediately asked for green in his as he has since.  This morning I was going to make him a cheese omlette. As I was getting eggs out of the refrigerator, Henry spotted a box of arugula. "In omlet", he said as he handed me the box.  We are working back to the cheese-spinach omlette.

Henry's former school provided fruit popsicles on each child's birthday. Henry's current school leaves the treat up to parents.  Since the celebration is mid-morning rather than after lunch, Alex did not think popsicles were the best option and instead sent mini Blueberry Muffins which were a hit with all.  Okay, they contain sugar but so does birthday cake and the cookies I sent to school for Chris and Alex's birthdays.


May 13, 2019: Excellent article on this topic in today's New York Times:

Reviewed 9/21/2017

December Tomatoes

If one wants to eat local in New England, November and December are the Brussels sprouts, apple, cranberry and root vegetable months. That is until Chris arrived this December with a box of tomatoes from his loft in Somerville (MA). After putting his outdoor garden to bed this fall, Chris decided to give indoor tomatoes, grown hydroponically a try.

"They just keep coming", he said, as he handed several to me, and frankly I'm getting a little sick of them."  What a treat!

Unfortunately he had harvested all his basil and made pesto a few weeks ago (not offered) so I had to purchase some basil to make pasta with fresh tomatoes.  Yumm! A delicious treat, full of summer, on a cold winter evening.








Reviewed 9/14/2017

Apple Keam

This recipe is for Henry. Apple Pie/Apples and Ice Cream  = (Apple Keam)

Henry's favorite dessert is Apple Pie, which Chris brings for holidays and occasionally just for dinner. I've begged Chris for the recipe, not that I'll ever be ambitious enough to make it, mostly because I could never successfully match Chris's pie, but just because it is so good.

Most of the time Henry has to settle for my simpler Apple Crisp and Apple Cranberry Crisp or when I'm in a hurry this easy version of "Apple Keam" (rhymes with "team").

It's not just that this is easy to make, it is also pretty healthy. Compared to the alternatives, the sugar is minimal. The sugar is mixed with cinnamon (a lot in this recipe because Henry loves cinnamon - adjust accordingly) and flour to give the apples a "pie filling taste" and to help evenly distribute the small amount of sugar.

Peel, quarter and thinly slice

4 small apples or fewer larger ones (about 1 1/4 pounds total)
If using larger apples, cut slices in half to make them "bite-sized".

Put apples in a medium sized bowl* and toss with
1 t lemon juice

In a small bowl combine:

1 t sugar
1 t ground cinnamon (adjust to your/child's tatse)
1T flour

Mix and add to the apple - lemon juice mixture and toss until well mixed.

Put mixture into a pie plate.

Microwave on high for approximately 4 minutes, stirring every minute, until the apples are soft but not mushy.  Cool and serve plain or with with vanilla/ginger ice cream, or yogurt (apples and cream)!

These are also one of Henry's favorite lunch treats.

* Or to save dishes, mix the apples and lemon juice in the pie plate in which they will be cooked.

28 January 2016: Apple Pie is now a family "Birthday Cake".  This was Henry's "cake" of choice for his second birthday  He joins my brother, who instead of cake, chooses to celebrate his birthday with a Strawberry Rhubarb Pie.








Reviewed 5/17/17

Taming Paperwhites

I love the hint of spring paperwhite narcissus bring to a cold January day but have never liked the way the plants collapse and fall over the pot just as they come into bloom.  This year I noticed a sign beside the paperwhites at our local Christmas fair suggesting alcohol would prevent this collapse. When I was given a bunch of bulbs for Christmas, I remembered this suggestion and cruised the web. I found many variations, but the most definitive instructions called for pouring off and replacing water surrounding the bulbs with a water-alcohol mix when the shoots are about 2 inches above the bulb.

The high sugar content of beer and wine makes these liquids less optimum than spirits or rubbing alcohol.  The ratio should be about 1 part spirits (I used vodka) to 7 parts water or 1 part rubbing alcohol to 10-11 parts water.  As the photo at left shows this worked for me.  The fragrance was less than usual. whether this was due to the particular bulbs or the added alcohol, I'm not sure. This was fine with Ed who has never been a fan of the paperwhite's "obnoxious" fragrance. Looking forward to paperwhites again next year!

Reviewed 9/21/2017

Wineberries

Time to check out the  woods!  For a number of years, (2009 berries at left, 2015 berries below), I have picked a sticky red raspeberry-like berry from the brambles on the west side of our house. Today after picking another heaping quart, I finally decided it would be a good idea to positively identify these wild things. Thank you Wikipedia:

Wineberry "is a perennial plant which bears biennial stems ("canes") from the perennial root system. In its first year, a new stem ("primocane") grows vigorously to its full height of 1-3 m, unbranched, and bearing large pinnateleaves with three or five leaflets; normally it does not produce any flowers. In its second year, the stem ("florocane") does not grow taller, but produces several side shoots, which bear smaller leaves always with three leaflets; the leaves are white underneath.

The flowers are produced in late spring on short, very bristly racemes on the tips of these side shoots, each flower 6–10 mm diameter with five purplish red to pink petals and a bristly calyx. The fruit is orange or red, about 1 cm diameter, edible ...it is not a berry at all, but an aggregate fruit of numerous drupelets around a central core. Ripening occurs from early summer.^[3][4] .

The canes have red glandular hairs. These red hairs give the species its scientific name from the Latin phoenicus meaning red .In addition to seed propagation, new plants are formed from the tips of existing canes touching the ground. They enjoy moist soil and grow near and within wooded areas.

As a fruit develops, it is surrounded by a protective calyx covered in hairs that exude tiny drops of sticky fluid...^[7]"*

Biennial stems,  tips of the canes rooting in the ground, the protective calayx, the red sticky berries,  this plant, which is now boardering on invasive on our property, meets all the criteria of wineberry.  

Over time many of the canes in our woods have died and turned brown. This spring  I  pruned the thicket and got rid of dead cane. This made the picking easier and, I think, the berries more abundant.  

We will enjoy these wineberries, mixed with a few wild blueberries (more favored by the birds so less abundant) and wild blackberrries also found on the same wooded slope. Wineberries are also good as a topping for local peaches which are now in season too.

* Quoted text Wikipedia; all photos Cook's Cache.


Reviewed 9/14/2017

Mother's Day Spider Plants

While this blog is about food, it's roots are in family recipes and family holiday traditions, mostly food but occasionally plants make it into the mix. Mother's Day is more about plants than food. The earliest Mother's Day plant I can remember is a tiny spider plant that Alexandra brought home from Mrs. (Lee) Brown's nursery school class. Three years later Christopher, then in Mrs. Brown's class, brough me a similar plant in a similar small paper cup. Somewhere in between came the Viburnum Tree (orchestrated by Ed) that we all planted together and still blooms in our yard each spring.

While these plants share the longevity prize, the spider plants are hands down winners of the profileration prize.  After having had many more, I'm down to three large spider plants in Lincoln and Chris has a similar number in Somerville by way of Brooklyn.  We still have one big spider plant in Colorado and there are a couple in New Hampshire.

This year I took  a tiny offshoot to Oregon. Henry, who I think is destined to be a gardner or at least a mulch spreader, had fun planting it as a Mother's Day gift for Alex.  We are now in the real second generation of spider plants!

Reviewed 9/21/2017

Pastuerized Eggs/Egg Whites/"Egg Product"

Going back to "old family recipes" is not without suprises. Several things I enjoyed growing up contained raw eggs.  Last week, in anticipation of making dinner for my Mom, I tried one of her favorite recipes, Snow Pudding. Warning, if an old family recipe does not have an accompanying photo, it may not be fully vetted.  I got as far as whipping the eggs when I realized something was wrong, was I  really going to feed my Mom raw eggs?  Granted while the chance of ingesting samonella from the raw eggs of conventional battery-caged chickens is quite high, the chance of ingesting samonella from the raw eggs of organic free range chickens is very low/negligible.  I really wasn't worried about the eggs I had just gotten from our neighbor. Even so, I decided to be ultra cautious especially since salmonella is particularly dangerous to the very young, very old and people with weakened immune systems.

Next question was do pastuerized egg whites whip well?  Harold McGee writes in On Food and Cooking, "Three safer alternatives to fresh eggs are eggs pasteurized in the shell, liquid eggs and dried egg whites, all of which are available in supermarkets.....For most uses, these products do an adequate job of replacing fresh eggs, though there is usually some loss in foaming or emulsifying power and in stability to further heating; and heating and drying do alter the mild egg flavor."*  Comments on the internet suggest these products usually do whip well but take longer to do so and sometimes require the addition of cream of tatar.  A stand mixer whipped the liquid egg whites I had purchased to stiff peaks in 3-4 minutes and the egg whites held firm as I beat in the additional ingredients required for Snow Pudding. I did add 1/4 t cream of tartar for 2/3 c of egg whites (the equivalent of 4 eggs), but I'm not sure this was entirely necessary given the brand of eggs and type of mixer I used.

"EGG PRODUCT"

In order to reduce the cholesterol content in many of my recipes, I use what I call "egg product" instead of eggs.  Previously, I had listed as an ingredient the brand I was using at the time.  My preeferred brand has changed over time as new products became available and in some cases others become no longer available. My current favorite is Abbotsford Farms "Cage Free Egg Product" This is made from real egg whites plus "natural flavor, color (includes beta carotene, spices, salt, onion powder, xanthan gum and guar gum". The onion and spices are subtle enough so that this product works well in cakes and other baked products  While some egg products have not worked well in Baked German Pancakes, this product works well in producing a very puffy pancake. The other alternatives are to use boxed egg whites (see above) or the whites of actual eggs.  I have done this when I have not had or been unable to find satisfactory "egg product"  See Egg White Puffed Pancake.

Using this product for custard results in a less delicate texture so I favor actual eggs in this recipe

* Page 83, 2004 edition.

Reviewed 5/10/2017

Good Day for Soup!

Kale Soup
Mushroom Barley Soup
Pea Soup
Onion Cider Soup
Corn and Green Chili Chowder








Reviewed 7/9/2017

About Linzertorte/Linzer Torte

For many years I had thought of Linzertorte as the almond crust, raspberry preserve filled torte I make for holidays and Chris's birthday. Then, when Chris made a Cranberry Linzertorte for Thanksgiving and I noticed variances in ingredients and technique, I began to think of Linzertorte in general.

My first stop was Kaffeehaus by Rick Rodgers, an excellent source of classic Austro-Hungarian pastry recipes, including the Sachertorte.  The Sachertorte and Linzertorte are two of Austria's most famous desserts, the latter named for the city of Linz. Rodgers writes,

"The exact origin of the Torte is not known.... The first printed recipe dates to 1719, and it contains the flour, almonds, sugar, egg yolks, and lemon zest that can still be found in today's version. During the Biedermeier period [~1815-1848], the Linzertorte was popularized by the Linz baker Johann Konrad Vogel, who boasted unconvincingly that he was its inventor"*

Rodgers goes on to describe what he considers the three essential variations of this torte, "The first two are based on a short crust dough, in which the butter is cut into the dry ingredients. 'White' Linzertorte is made from blanched almonds. Cocoa (or chocolate) and toasted hazelnuts (or unskinned almonds) give 'Brown' Linzertorte a darker color and deeper flavor. 'Creamed' Linzertorte... uses the same ingredients, but the butter is creamed, making the dough soft enough to pipe the lattice pattern on the torte, sometimes almost completely covering the preserves."*

When it comes to filling, Rogers states in Austria "the dough is usually filled with black currant preserves (raspberry preserves are used only in other countries like America, where they are cheaper than currant), but even that isn't a constant and changes from baker to baker."*

Rogers includes a recipe for Brown Linzertorte* which calls for a dough made with
toasted and peeled hazelnuts ( 7 oz), 1 T cocoa , zest of 1 lemon, 1/2 t ground cinnamon, 1/8 t ground cloves,1/4 t salt and 1 T lemon juice along with the flour (1 1/2 c), sugar (1 c), butter (14 T ) and 2 egg yolks. He uses a nine-inch spring form pan, lined with buttered parchment paper, He divides the dough into two discs, wraps the discs in plastic wrap and  and referigerates until firm, at least an hour and up to overnight. The dough (one disc) is pressed into the bottom of the pan and up 1 inch on the sides,  about 1/4 inch thick overall. The shell is brushed with beaten egg white and cooked for about 15 minutes at 350 degrees F.  The recipe calls for a filling of  1 c of black current, red current or seedless raspberry preserves. The dough for the lattice is rolled and cut with scraps used to form a ridge around the perimeter of the torte.  The lattice is brushed with a mixture of one egg yolk and 1 T milk. He garnishes the torte with 3 T of sliced almonds before baking.

The Cook's Cache recipe, adapted from the New York times recipe must also be considered a brown torte as it calls for almonds with skins, but not toasted.  It also calls for a springform pan which I line with buttered parchment paper but does not call for pre baking  the shell. The filling is 1/3 (NY Times) - 2/3 cup (my adaption)  raspeberry preserves, preferably with seeds and the lattice is individually rolled ropes not cut strips (see photos).  The lattice is brushed with beaten egg white before baking.


The Silver Palate Cookbook  Linzertorte recipe**  is a "white Linzertorte" made with blanched unroasted almonds as well as a "creamed Linzertorte" directing the maker to "squeeze out a lattice crust on top."  The pan of choice is a 9-inch false-bottom tart pan, unlined, and the preserve, raspberry. (2/3 cup)

In How to Cook Everything, Mark Bittman's Linzer Torte recipe*** calls for blanched, toasted almonds and an  8- or 9-inch tart pan.  The dough is rolled and prebaked then filled with raspberry preserves (1 1/2 cups).  He gives good directions for making a lattice using rolled dough.

I once, pre-blog, so no photos, made a Linzertorte using the recipe from  Cold Weather Cooking. Sarah Leah Chase's Chocolate and Apricot Linzertorte recipe**** called for lightly roasted and skinned hazelnuts and cocoa in the crust and an  apricot filling (made with apricot preserves, dried apricots, orange juice and Grand Marnier). Replacing "our" traditional almond crust and raspberry filling with a chocolate crust and apricot filling was considered heresy by my family. However, it definately falls within the parameters of a Linzertorte. For the record, the recipe calls for an 11-inch tart pan with a removable bottom, pre baking the bottom shell, rolling the dough for the lattice and brushing the top before baking with beaten egg whites.

The Joy of Cooking Linzertorte recipe***** calls for unblanced almonds and a good quality raspberry jam, preserves or apple butter.  It is a creamed Linzertorte with the lattice made by forcing the dough through a pastry tube. Only pan instructions are to use an  [9-inch] ovenproof dish.

Unable to find a recipe for Linzertorte in The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook, I went to Deb Perelman's blog where I did find a recipe for linzer torte . This recipe is in fact a double quantity recipe making 2 9"-inch round, 2 8-inch square or one 9-inch by 13-inch torte. The rectangular tortes are cut into bars not wedges.  Ms. Perleman uses walnuts and a raspberry jam plus breadcrumb/panko filling (1 cup jam/torte), rolls the lattice, brushes the top before baking with a mixture of egg yolk and water and tops with slivered almonds before baking.

And now back to the Cranberry Linzertorte that started this whole discourse.  This recipe calls for roasted almonds and hazelnuts, the latter skinned after roasing and a cranberry filling (with orange jiuce and orange zest).  It calls for a tart pan with removable bottom and lattice made from rolled dough.






The takeaway for the recipes I reviewed:  Linzertorte (or less frequently used "linzer torte") can be made with a variety of nuts, roasted or not roasted, skinned or not skinned and filled with a variety and varying quantity (1/3 cup to ~ 1 1/2 cups) of preserves.  Pans with removable bottoms are preferred and a tart pan is most frequently used . Bottom crusts are sometimes pre-baked and the lattice most often cut from rolled dough.  The top is sometimes brushed with beaten egg white or beaten egg yolk and water before baking.  The Linzertorte recipe I use is an outlier being the only recipe  that uses individually rolled pieces for the lattice, I am going to try rolling the lattice next time.  I am also going to try using a tart pan with a removable bottom instead of a spring form pan.

* Pages 54, 54, 54, 52-53
** Pages 302-302, 1982 edition
*** Pages 700-701, 1998 edition
**** Pages 176-177, 1990 edition
***** Page 604, 1964 edition

Reviewed 9/21/2017







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