Pork Tenderloin with Glazed Oranges

This is a Father's Day post in honor of Dan, Henry's Dad, who first made this for me.  The book from which this recipe comes, Vij's at Home, was a gift from Alex and Dan,  written by the owner of one of their favorite Indian restaurants.  When Dan made this I prepped for him and was amazed at the quantity of cayenne peper in the marinade.  The resulting pork (served without oranges) was delicious.  The first time I made this, however, it was a disaster.  I scaled the marinade ingredients to my 1 pound piece of pork tenderloin and made a full recipe of the orange glaze. I'm not sure what happened, maybe my cayenne pepper was much hottter than Dan's. Hot for me and too hot for Chris and Ed. I liked the concept though; the oranges, pimenton and pepper reminded me of one of my favorite recipes, Spicy Orange Shrimp. So I tried again, using chili powder instead of cayenne pepper.  (Vij uses 1 T each of cayenne peper and paprika for a 2 1/2 pound tenderloin, and 1 T salt which I omit).  Also, while Vig cuts the 2 1/2  pounds of pork into 24 pieces, Dan and I roast/grill the tenderloin whole and then slice.

The orange glaze is the full recipe (for 2 1/2 pounds of pork).  I have yet to make the full meal suggested in this cookbook: tenderloin and oranges served over spinach and split pea mash, topped with cumin curry and garnished with pistachios and dates, but it is on my to do list....

Make the marinade for a 1 pound pork tenderloin by mixing together:

3 T olive oil
1 1/2 t paprika or pimenton
1 1/2 t chili powder
1 1/2 t garlic, finely chopped

Put the meat in the marinade and coat all sides. marinate for at least 3 hours, turning several times.

Make the orange glaze: in a medium sauce pan

1T butter (I've substituted olive oil but it's not as good)
5 whole cloves
1/4  t chili powder (Vig uses cayenne pepper)
3 T brown sugar  (Vig also suggests demerara or honey)
1/ 2 c orange juice (Vig uses mango juice)

Over medium heat, bring to a slight boil while stirring.

Add

1 large organic naval orange, unpeeled sliced in 1/4 inch rounds

Bring to a light boil, cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes.  Remove from heat and allow to cool.

Meanwhile grill pork to internal temperature of 150 degrees F.

Slice and top meat with oranges, either whole or, my preference, cut in quarters.











Reviewed 6/13/2017

Pork with Plums

Serves 3

It's midsummer and it was pointed out at dinner last night that we had been having many of the same, albeit seasonal, things over and over again. Time to try something new.  Browsing through the August issue of Bon Appetit I came across "Pork Tenderloin with Plum Chutney".  This is a very loose adaption which blanches the plums, and uses less dark brown sugar instead of more light brown sugar, red wine vinegar instead of Sherry or apple cider vinegar, grainy mustard instead of mustard seed, no bay leaf or Kosher salt and boneless pork chops instead of pork tenderloin wrapped in pancetta. My critical eaters said it was a good change :-)


In a sauce pan half full of boiling water place:

2 large plums

Boil for 1 - 2 minutes until the skins on the plums begin to split. Remove the plums from the boiling water, rinse in cold water and pull off the skin. Slice plums and remove pits.  Then cut slices into smaller chunks.

In a small skillet combine:

1 1/2 t olive oil (heat oil first)
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
1 1/2 t garlic, minced

When the shallots are soft add:

1 T red wine vinegar
2 T dark brown sugar
1 1/2 t grainy mustard
1 t ginger, grated and peeled
2 T water

Cook for about 2 minutes until the sauce is well blended, then add the plum chunks.  Cover and simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally for 8 - 10 miuntes.  Uncover and continue cooking, stirring occasionally until the fruit is soft and the juices have thickened, about 20 minutes. Sauce can be made ahead and refrigerated.  Rewarm slightly before serving.

When sauce is ready or almost ready, sprinkle

3 boneless pork chops, about 1/3 pound each with:

Herbes de Provence
Rosemary, fresh if available otherwise dried

Place the chops on a medium hot grill and cook turning until firm to the touch (145 - 150 degrees F). Center will be slightly pink but moist.  Remember meat keeps cooking after it is removed from the heat source and at 160 degrees F pork will be well done and dry.

Divide the sauce among the three chops and garnish with fresh rosemary.

SEE ALSO:  Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Fruit

Reviewed 6/13/2017

Grass Fed Meat

© 2013 Edward C Kern, Jr.

It's not that I don't like hamburgers.... When I was at Harvard GSD I joined the guys in my class (and sometimes the one other gal) for lunch at Bartley's Burgers several times a month.   After Alexandra arrived, restaurant lunches were replaced by picnics in Harvard Yard, and subsequent stories of CAFO feedlots led me to choose a portobello burger over a standard hamburger when dining out.

When Ed and I skied Snowmass recently we found that Ullrhof, a restaurant at the base of the Big Burn (which we frequently choose for convenience rather than food), had been transformed to a "burger - shakes -  fries" stop. While  portobello and mahi mahi  burgers were options so was a locally raised grass fed beef burger;  I opted for the latter and found it quite good, cooked medium rare, and served with lettuce, onions, tomato and house dressing. I could identify with Barbara Kingsolver  (Animal, Vegetable, Mineral: A Year of Food Life ) and her family ordering hamburgers at The Farmers Diner (moved to Quechee Vermont, now closed):

"The Vermont-raised hamburger with a side of slaw, home fries, or a salad is $6.50. At any price, it's an unusual experience to order a diner burger that does not come with a side of feedlot remorse.  For our family this was quiet a little red-letter occasion, since we'd stopped eating CAFO-produced beef about ten years earlier..... In Lily's life, this was the first time we'd ever walked into a diner and ordered burgers.  Understandably, she kept throwing me glances - this is really okay?  It was."(1)

As part of writing this post I called Bartley's Burgers and was delighted  to discover that they are now serving grass fed beef.  It really is okay to go there now too.

Right after we arrived home this week I got an e-mail from Alexandra sharing an article on grass fed Oregon beef as well as a link to the website of the farm she and Dan were about to try (pork chops that night).  She reported that the chops were excellent but the pick-up location still problematic.

1  Animal, Vegetable, Mineral: A Year of Food Life, page 149

© 2013 Edward C Kern, Jr.

March 2013:  Riding up the Big Burn chairlift this month, I noticed a factoid: last year the restaurants at the Aspen Skiing Company's four mountains served "43,000 pounds of Milangro Ranch beef." The "classic" Ullrhof hamburger, shown at left and above, is actually two (for faster, more-even cooking) 2.5 ounce patties.







Reviewed 5/7/17

Best Christmas Present of All

The best Christmas present of all is having family together and this year we were delighted to have Chris, Alex and Dan and Moogie (in order of arrival) here for a great Christmas visit. Alex and Dan, who had received a pasta maker as a gift last Christmas, gave Christopher one this year. Then Alex and  Dan (grounded in Lincoln for an extra 24 hours because of a snow storm) and Christopher decided to shop and make dinner the night after Christmas.  A real treat for me!



They made fresh pasta and cooked a wonderful pork ragu from a recipe Alex and Dan had used before (omitting the pancetta, mushroom demi glaze and using considerably less pork).

It was absolutely delicious!  Christopher declared the pasta a bit "rustic", and I understand that since returning to Brooklyn, he has been perfecting the pasta recipe and  technique and will hopefully post the results on this blog soon :-)



This was a gift that kept on giving. Ed and I enjoyed the rest of the Pork Ragu, albeit with store bought fresh pasta for New Year's (photo lower left).

Reviewed 9/20/2017

Pork with Vidalia Onion Fig Sauce

Serves 4.

Make marinade by mixing together:

1 T Stonewall Kitchen Vidalia Onion Fig Sauce*
1 T Balsamic Vinegar
1 T Tamari/Soy Sauce
1 T Orange Juice

Pour marinade over:

~ 1- 1 1/4 pound pork tenderloin or 4 small boneless pork medallions

Turn pork to be sure all surfaces are well coated with the marinade. Place in refrigerator for 1-2 hours; remove from refrigerator one-half hour before cooking.

Before or while cooking pork make Onion Sauce:

In a small skillet heat:

2 t olive oil

Add:

1 large Vidalia onion, peeled and very thinly sliced.

Sauté until onion is wilted and golden, then add:

2-3 T Stonewall Kitchen Vidalia Onion Fig Sauce

Grill or roast pork until done (150 degrees F), basting with any remaining marinade; time will vary given hotness of grill; medium temperature for ~ 20 minutes for a tenderloin. NOTE: If using a tenderloin it is best to let it sit for about 10 minutes before slicing, temperature should rise about 5 degrees in this time so set meat thermometer accordingly.

Serve pork medallions or sliced tenderloin topped with Onion Sauce.

VARIATION:
Add 1 thinly sliced pear half-way through cooking onions.










VARIATION:
Use just the marinade without the additional sauce:

* Goal is to make my own fig sauce, but until I do, I use this which is available at many markets both in the East and the West.






Reviewed 6/13/2017

Maple-Pear Grilled Pork Chops

This is my further adaption (adapted in part because I had a several ripe local pears on hand) of Pork Chops with Maple Syrup, Pecans and Dried Cranberries. It is simpler to prepare and uses the grill, instead of the oven.

Serves 2






In a small flat dish (just large enough to hold the pork on one level) combine:

3/8 c maple syrup
1 1/2 t balsamic vinegar
1 T dark brown sugar
1/4 t cinnamon

Mix well and pour most of the mixture into a small sauce pan, leaving just enough liquid (about 2 T to evenly coat pork chops on both sides). Place

2 boneless pork chops (1/4 - 1/3 pound each)

in the flat dish with the remaining syrup mixture and turn chops until both sides are well coated.

Grill chops until cooked through, approximately 6-7 minutes on a side, depending on thickness, coating with any remaining maple syrup mixture. Remove from grill and let sit while making sauce.

SAUCE: Warm the maple syrup mixture that was placed in the saute pan and then add:

1/4 c pecans
1/4 c dried cranberries

cook for 2 minutes and then add:

1 pear, peeled, cored and sliced
several sage leaves, coarsely chopped

and saute just until pear is tender.

Place one chop on each of two plates, top with the sauce and garnish with a few sage leaves.


VARIATION: Use thinly sliced apples instead of pears.

Reviewed 6/13/2017

Pork Chops with Maple Syrup, Pecans and Dried Cranberries

This recipe, an adaptation of "Vermont Pan-seared Pork Medallions with Cranberry-Pecan Sauce" from the cookbook In a Vermont Kitchen by Amy Lyon and Lynne Andreen, was recommended by Ada Graham, the Summer 2009 Manager of Moosilauke Ravine Lodge, for Friday night dinner of Alex and Dan's Wedding Weekend at the Lodge. The MRL adaptions are in brackets.

Makes 4 servings.

Make 8 large Zucchini and Onion Pancakes*  [MRL omits] and keep warm. Preheat oven to 250 degrees F (120C)

Place:

12 ounces pork tenderloin, cut into 8 equal slices [MRL uses pork chops]

between 2 pieces of waxed paper, and pound to 1/4-inch thickness. [if using pork chops, do not pound]

In a medium bowl, mix together:
1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/8 t salt
1/8 t freshly ground black pepper
1/4 c maple sugar or firmly packed light or dark brown sugar [MRL uses 1/2 brown sugar, 1/2 maple syrup]

Coat the pork with the flour mixture, shaking off any excess.



in a large saute pan, over medium heat, heat

1/2 c extra-virgin olive oil

Add the pork slices, making sure they do not touch each other. If needed, saute in batches. Saute 5 minutes; turn, and saute until brown, 3 minutes. Transfer the pork to a baking sheet and keep warm in the oven while making the sauce. [MRL dips pork chops in mixture then BAKES; about 1/2 through; sauce (see below) is then poured over chops and then chops are baked until done.]

To the same pan, add:

2 shallots, coarsely chopped [MRL uses yellow onions]
1/2 c dried cranberries
1/4 c chopped pecans
1 T maple sugar or firmly packed light or dark brown sugar [MRL uses 1/2 brown sugar, 1/2 maple syrup]

Cook 2 minutes. Stir in:

1/2 cup port wine [MRL uses cooking sherry]

Boil, stirring until reduced by half.  Add:

1/2 cup beef stock [MRL sometimes uses vegetable stock]
1/2 cup cranberry juice

Boil until reduced by half.  Add:

2 T balsamic vinegar
1/2 t salt
1/2 t ground white pepper
3 T chopped fresh sage

Simmer 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to very low. Add:

© 2009 Chris Kern

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, in pieces

Stir until butter is incorporated. Return the pork to the pan, and bring to a boil.

To serve, place 2 pancakes [MRL omits] on each plate and top each with a pork medalion. Spoon 1/4 of the sauce over each medallion and top with 2 tablespoons each of:

1/2 c dried cranberries
1/2 c toasted pecan halves



*ZUCCHINI AND ONION PANCAKES

In a medium bowl mix together:

3 c grated zucchini
1 small onion, grated
1 medium potato, peeled and grated
1 small jalapeño chili, finely minced
1/2 c finely chopped red bell pepper
2 t finely chopped fresh parsley
1 t salt
1 t freshly ground black pepper.

Sprinkle with:

2 T all-purpose flour

Mix to combine then add:

2 eggs, beaten

And mix again to combine. In a large frying pan, heat

2 T canola [I would use peanut/olive] oil over medium heat.

Drop the zucchini mixture by rounded tablespoonfuls into the skillet. Flatten slightly. Fry until golden, about 2 minutes. Turn, and fry on the other side until brown, 2 minutes. Transfer the pancakes to paper towels to absorb the excess oil. Repeat with the remaining zucchini mixture, adding oil as needed.

Reviewed 6/13/2017

Roasted Pork Loin with Apricot Compote

Alexandra and Christopher served Roasted Pork Loin with Gewürztraminer-Apricot Compote with Vegetable Barley and Three-Chocolate Hazelnut Tart for my birthday in 2006. All three recipes are from Wildwood Cooking from the Source in the Pacific Northwest by Cory Schreiber, a wonderful cookbook  Alexandra gave me for Christmas 2005.






COMPOTE:

In a medium saucepan, combine:

1 c Gewurztraminer
1 c apple cider
1 cinnamon stick

1 whole vanilla bean, split and scraped OR
2 t vanilla extract; if using extract, ADD AFTER syrup is
removed from heat

Bring to boil, reduce heat and add:

8 oz dried apricot halves

Simmer for 20 minutes, or until a syrup consistency is achieved. Remove from heat. [Add vanilla extract, if using.] Set aside and keep warm. This mixture can be made 1 day ahead and reheated.

PORK:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Season

1 4-rib pork loin roast (about 2 ½ to 3 pounds), chine bone removed
with
1 t salt
1 t  freshly ground black pepper

In a large skillet over medium high heat, heat

1 T vegetable oil

Place pork in pan and brown on all sides. Place pork on a rack in a roasting pan and roast in the oven for about 45 minutes, or until an instant read thermometer inserted in the center of the pork registers 145 degrees F. Remove pork from the oven, cover loosely with aluminum foil, and let stand for 15 minutes. [This should raise temperature to 150 degrees F]

Cut pork loin into 4 portions and spoon on the apricot compote.

Wildwood suggests plating by distributing Vegetable Barley on to individual plates, topping each portion with wilted spinach and a slice of pork and spooning apricot compote over the pork.

Reviewed 6/13/2017

Fruit Stuffed Loin of Pork

8 to 10 portions

This recipe is adapted from the Silver Palate Cookbook by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukinsand is one of my longtime favorites.





4 pounds boneless pork loin roast, prepared for stuffing [I usually use pork tenderloin,
though this is a bit harder to stuff; each tenderloin is about 1 pound so I adjust other
ingredients to reflect amount of meat used.]

1cup pitted prunes, approximately
1cup dried apricots, approximately
1 garlic clove
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
8 tablespoons (1 stick) sweet butter, softened [I omit]
1 tablespoon dried thyme
1 cup Madeira wine
1 tablespoon molasses
Watercress (garnish)

Preheat oven to 350° F.

Using the handle of a wooden spoon, push the dried fruits into the pocket in the roast, alternating prunes and apricots [If using tenderloins use a long sharp knife to cut a slit down the inside center of the loin, rotating knife slightly once it has been inserted into loin]

Cut the garlic into thin slivers. Make deep slits in the roast with the tip of a knife and push the garlic into the slits. Tie the roast with twine [I have never found this necessary] and rub surface with salt and pepper.

Set the roast in a shallow baking pan and smear the butter over the roast [I omit butter]. Sprinkle with thyme.

Stir Madeira and molasses together in a small bowl and pour over the roast. Set the pan on the middle rack of the oven and bake for 1 1/2 hours (approximately 20 minutes per pound), basting frequently. [Tenderloins will require less cooking time; approximately 25 minutes for a 1 pound tenderloin. Internal temperature should be 150 (pink) - 160 degrees (well done) F.  Pork will keep cooking after it is removed from the oven so if planning to let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes, remove at 150 or 155 degrees.]

When roast is done (do not overcook), remove it from the oven and let it stand, loosely covered with foil, for 15 or 20 minutes. Cut into thin slices; arrange slices on a serving platter, and spoon pan juices over them.

Garnish platter with watercress and serve immediately.

Reviewed 6/13/2017

Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Fruit

6 to 8 servings

This recipe is adapted from the recipe "Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Port, Plums and Apricots" found in Sarah Leah Chase’s Nantucket Open House Cookbook

Since I don’t like to use marinade that has been over the raw pork for sauce, I have shown in brackets modifications to keep sauce marinade separate. I also tend to do this with smaller pork tenderloins (averaging about 1 pound each), and cut the amount of marinade to correspond with the amount of meat being cooked.

Rather than grilling, I have on occasion cooked the tenderloin in a 350 degree F oven, basting frequently with the marinade, for 20-25 minutes/pound, to an internal temperature of 150 degrees F.

Rub ;

1 boneless pork loin, about 4 pounds, cut in half lengthwise
[I usually use pork tenderloins and do not cut in half]

with:

4 T olive oil
Coarse (kosher) salt [I omit]

Place in a 5 to 6 inch deep bowl or pan [shallower bowl works fine for tenderloin].

Place in a saucepan and heat to simmering.

1 1/2 c  port
1 c  fresh orange juice
3 T honey
3 T cider vinegar
3 shallots, minced
3 cloves garlic, halved [I mince]
½ c dried apricots [I add later]
8 fresh prune plums, cut in half and pitted [ I add later and if plums are not in season, I use prunes]
2 T chopped fresh Rosemary [or 1 T dried Rosemary]
Salt and pepper to taste

Simmer for 5 minutes, and then pour [ABOUT ½ ] the warm marinade over the pork. Let cool to room temperature. [I cover and put straight in the refridgerator.] Cover the bowl and let pork marinate, turning the meat occasionally, in the refrigerator at least 4 hours. [good when you have the time, I often do less]

Prepare charcoal or wood chips for grilling. [Light gas grill.]

When the coals are hot, remove the pork from the marinade and sear a few inches from the heat on all sides until nicely browned. Adjust the grill rack so that the pork is about 4 to 5 inches from the coals. [We use gas grill and adjust temperature rather than rack height, starting on high and reducing to low.] Cover the grill and cook the pork, turning occasionally, to desired doneness, 35 to 45 minutes [20-25 minutes for tenderloin.  Meat will keep cooking after it is removed from the grill so if planning to let it sit for any length of time, remove at 145 degrees.].

[Add apricots and plums to the remaining marinade and] Boil the marinade in a saucepan for just 1 to 2 minutes [about 5 minutes]. Cut the pork into ½ inch thick slices and spoon the warm marinade over the slices.

Reviewed 6/131/2017

Coriander Sauce (Cilantro Pesto)

Ed and I first had a sauce similar to this over cod at Sol Azteca in Boston back in the early 1970’s. “Cilantro pesto” has since become trendy and versions can now be found in many cookbooks. This is my version, a result of trying to second-guess Sol Azteca

Note: More commonly in the U.S. the fresh herb (leaves and stems) are referred to as "cliantro" and the seeds as coriander. In Mexico and South America the fresh herb is often referred to as "fresh coriander"

Puree in blender or food processor:

1 c fresh coriander leaves
4-5 canned green tomatillos (optional and I generally now omit)
2-3 green chili, roasted and skinned
2 cloves garlic
3 T olive oil
Juice of 1 lime (2T/1 oz)




This sauce, like (Basil) Pesto Sauce may be frozen in an ice cube tray wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and thawed in small quantities.

FISH WITH CORIANDER SAUCE

Place a coating of sauce over the fish (white fish or salmon) and bake according to fish type and thickness. Serve with additional sauce.

CHICKEN WITH CORIANDER SAUCE

Marinate boneless, skinless chicken breasts in

1 part olive oil
2 parts lime juice
Cumin to taste

Grill until done and then serve topped with the coriander sauce.

PORK WITH CORIANDER SAUCE

Marinate boneless pork loin cutlets in

1 part olive oil
2 parts lime juice
Cumin to taste

Grill until done and then serve topped with the coriander sauce.

FREEZING THE PESTO

When freesing, I put the pesto in a flat container (one in the photo is

 4" x 6" x 2") then as the mixture begins to harden I score around the edges and into eight 1 ounce servings which are easy to break off to use in a recipe. If making a double recipe, a second layer separated by a piece of parchment paper is possible.






Reviewed  5/10/2022

Revised 6/8/2023 - Freezing note added