DECEMBER

The leaves are raked and the gardens are put to bed but not yet covered with snow. Some local apples, beets, squash, celeriac, carrots and potatoes remain at the few local farm stands that are still open. Time to scour the winter garden and woods for Andromeda, holly, rose hips, pine cones and evergreens for holiday decorations and think about the holiday menu.

This year featured some of the old favorites: a reprise (from Thanksgiving) of Roasted Almonds, then Hot Potato Salad and Strawberry Shortcake for Christmas Eve, Cranberry Stollen and Cranberry Bread for Christmas morning and Cranberry Pudding  for Christmas Dinner.

Remembering comments and preferences from last Christmas, there was a shake up in the cookie department.  When I could not get the requisite dried pineapple for Fruit Cake, I decided that while this might have been one of my Dad's favorites, recently this has not been as popular as other offerings. So instead of Fruit Cake, I used one of my grandmother's recipes and made Date Nut Bars. The Molasses Cookies/Gingersnaps which were not best-sellers last Christmas either, were replaced by Spicy Gingerbread. Christopher's favorite Nut Puffs and Mexican Chocolate Meringues rounded out the cookie plate, served with clementines.

Then as the house empties out (still no snow),  I use the last of the holiday ham to make a double batch of Pea Soup. I follow the recipe, sort of, taking the liberty to tidy the veggie drawer and throw in all of the carrot and celery sticks left over from the hummus dip, the sliced fennel left over from salads, the minced parsley, scallions.....

For Christmas we gave Christopher a cast iron wok to try in lieu of his teflon coated wok.  After Christmas, Chris and I seasoned it and totally smoked the kitchen in the process. A Tale of Two Woks as well as recipes for Date Nut Bars and Spicy Ginger Bread will be among my first posts of 2012.   Happy New Year!




Reviewed 9/19/2017

NOVEMBER

In eastern Massachusetts, November is squash, root vegetables, cranberry, spinach and bitter greens time; it's dark early and fire and comfort-food time: more pumpkin and time for Cranberry Apple Crisp.

It's also the beginning of the holiday season and time to make Roasted Almonds, Cranberry Ice, Cranberry Relish, and Creamed Onions, also Cranberry Bread for holiday breakfasts and Pumpkin Pie and Apple Tart for Thanksgiving desserts.  Though Ed's family always served Hot Potato Salad for both Thanksgiving and Christmas, we tend to save it for Christmas and/or New Year's and have whipped potatoes or Mashed Potatoes with Parsnips for Thanksgiving.

As the holidays approach I aggressively "prune" our Andromeda and add rose hips for color as a centerpiece for our table.

For a cozy dinner by the fire, we take advantage of the many varieties of mushrooms now available and have Mushroom Risotto with Winter Squash and Sage accompanied by a salad of Bitter Greens with Mustard Maple Dressing.








Reviewed 9/19/2017

Bitter Greens with Maple Mustard Dressing

It's getting to be that time of year, not too much local stuff around.  Lots of squash and lots of kale. I've never used kale in salad before but tried it last night with a sweet dressing.  I really liked it, Ed declared it a bit "scratchy" and suggested I blend it with more conventional salad greens or use more spinach next time. Trick is to cut the greens into small strips.

Make the dressing:

Mix together in salad dressing carafe or glass jar:


2 T Dijon-style mustard (I use Grey Poupon)
1/3 c tarragon vinegar
1 T maple syrup
1/3 c olive oil

Shake very well.

Prepare the greens:

Remove center stems/veins and very thinly slice a selection of winter greens such as

Kale (the more varieties the better), collard greens and spinach...

Toss with the Maple Mustard Dressings and top with:

Maple Walnuts
Pomegranate seeds (or dried cranberries)





Reviewed 6/18/2017

Maple Acorn Squash

This is a fall favorite I remember my Mom making when I was growing up in New Hampshire. It is so easy to make and ideal to stick in the oven when roasting chicken or meat.

1 squash serves 2

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Cut squash in half and clean out all the strings and seeds.

Place squash in a baking pan with enough water to cover half way up each piece of squash.  Place in each squash:

1 small piece butter (to taste)
1 T maple syrup (more if squash is large)

Place in preheated oven and cook 45 minutes to one hour, depending on size of squash, until flesh is soft and easily pierced with a fork.

Oven temperature may be adjusted to accommodate another recipe cooking simultaneously; if temperature is higher and edges of squash begin to burn, cover with aluminum foil.  Add more water if necessary.

Reviewed 8/23/2017

Sesame Crusted Tuna with Scallions and Ginger Sticky Rice

This recipe owes three big thank-yous to Alex and Dan: first, for giving me The Paley's Place Cookbook for Christmas last year; second, for suggesting we eat at the Moonstone Grill when Ed and I were recently in Trinidad Bay (CA) and third, recommending we order the tuna.  The tuna* was sesame crusted, seared rare and served with ginger sticky rice, fried leeks and a trio of sauces: Sriracha aiolo, chive oil and beet emulsion. Ed and I seldom order the same thing, but this time we did, a double good choice.  When I asked how the tuna was cooked I was told it was rolled in sesame seeds and then pan fried. However, for my first two tries I chose to try a technique found in the Paley's Place recipe for Poppy Seed-Crusted Albacore Tuna with Chickpea Puree and Fennel Salad: rolling the tuna in seeds, poppy in their recipe, sesame in mine, then wrapping it in aluminum foil.

Serves 2

In a small skillet over medium high heat, toast until they are golden brown:

1/2 c sesame seeds

Stir constantly.  If the seeds start to pop, lift the pan off the heat and continue stirring until popping subsides.

If planning to use Ginger Sticky Rice make recipe below.


Cut into two equal strips with a ~ 1 1/4"  x  ~ 1 1/4" cross-section

2/3 #  yellow tail tuna (keep strip size in mind when buying tuna)

Roll the tuna pieces in the sesame seeds.  Do not use all the sesame seeds at once; there may be more than enough.  In this case, if they have not touched the tuna they can be saved for future use.

Tightly wrap the tuna pieces in one layer of aluminum foil.

Brush

6 small scallions with
Sesame seed oil

Heat a large dry skillet over high heat (we do this on a skillet on the grill) until very hot, about 5 minutes.  Sear the tuna, still wrapped in foil on all sides, about 5 minutes altogether. Cook the scallions for approximately the same time, until wilted and tender. The tuna will cook fairly fast and keep cooking after being removed from heat. Unwrap each piece right after cooking to reduce speed at which it will continue to cook. To also reduce further cooking slice in 1/2 thick pieces. I serve with wasabi, wasabi butter and pickled sushi ginger.


Ginger Sticky Rice

Serves 3 (quantities for 2 servings shown in parens)

In a rice cooker or small pot with cover combine:

1 c (2/3 c)  sushi rice
3 t (2 t)  crystalized ginger, finely chopped
1 5/8 c (1 c + 1 T) water
2 T (1 T + 1 t) preserved lemon**, include juice (optional - water may be substituted)

Cook until all water is absorbed; keep warm until tuna is ready to serve. I form rice in ramekins and then unmold on individual plates.

* If you go to the Moonstone Grill site and see Big Eye Tuna (not one of the more sustainable tunas) on the menu please be advised the menu is from when the Moonstone Grill opened in 2003. Chris Smith, the restaurant's owner told me that Moonstone no longer serves Big Eye but first grade tuna - the best that they can purchase that is safe catch. 
 

** Preserved Lemon Peel


This recipe is from The Paley's Place Cookbook


"Makes 2 tablespoons


The conventional way of preserving lemons can be time consuming, I devised this quick and easy alternative.


1 lemon, washed and dried
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 t sugar


With a paring knife, remove the peel from the lemon in large pieces, then cut it into julienne strips.  In a small saucepan, place the peel and enough cold water to cover and cook over high heat until water boils. Drain and repeat this process twice.


Juice the peeled lemon and strain into a small bowl; add salt and sugar, then the blanched peel.  Let the peel macerate at room temperature for 1 hour so the flavors marry. Store, refrigerated, in a tightly sealed plastic [I would use glass] container. It will keep for about a week." (page 219)



VARIATION:  This works with salmon too. Top some Salmon with Red Miso Sauce with roasted sesame seeds, wrap tightly in aluminum foil and grill approximately 5 minutes on a side until temperature reaches 125 degrees F. 

Reviewed 5/22/2017

OCTOBER

We spent part of October on the West Coast where Alex and Dan introduced us to a new (for me) fall veggie - celeriac, or celery root. We bought it at the Portland Farmer's Market and Alex prepared it much like mashed potatoes: peeled it, cut it into chunks and then boiled it until it could be easily mashed using a potato masher. Finished with salt and pepper and a bit of butter or olive oil, it is an interesting substitute for mashed potatoes. I've since found it at our farm stands, and used it instead of potatoes when making Cod with Carmelized Onions and Mushrooms.





At the Farmer's Market we also got a stalk of Brussels sprouts, abundant in the East this month too.

Although not local to New England, I look forward to figs which, unlike many fruits and vegetables, are only available to us for one short season.  In addition to using them as a garnish on Almond Olive Oil Cake,  I top local fall arugula with figs and pomegranate seeds and dress with just a bit of very good quality balsamic vinegar.

October is also apple month. Now that Alex and Chris are grown, we no longer make the trek to Harvard, MA to pick apples but rely on the local farm stands that offer an ever increasing variety of apples - one stand boasting "19 kinds of apples". It was particularly fun shopping for apples at the Portland Farmer's Market where vendors offered tastes of the various varieties. Interestingly, one variety that Alex had found sweet and crisp the previous week was not so tasty when we sampled it the following week. Time for Apple Raisin Muffins and Apple Tart and later in the month as cranberries are harvested, Cranberry Apple-Crisp.

And the pumpkins.... For recipes see Pumpkin Time Again.











Reviewed 9/19/2019

Farmer's Market Huevos Rancheros

One of my most favorite things to do when visiting Alex and Dan in Portland (OR) is to visit the Saturday Farmer's Market.  The awesome mushrooms, the roasted peppers, toasted hazelnuts, not to mention all the fresh veggies, fish, meat, cheeses, breads, flowers....  Now I have one more good reason: breakfast.  There was a line, but we decided it was worth a wait to get breakfast at Verde Cocina (a stand in the Farmer's Market but now also a cafe).  Ed and I ordered Huevos Rancheros  (photo below, right) and Alex and Dan ordered Buenos Dias Breakfast (photo below, lower left) .  While we waited, we watched the "lots of market veggies" cook on the huge skillet.

The Huevos Rancheros - inspired by all the local veggies - were awesome .  When we returned home I picked up some of my neighbor's eggs and decided to give this a simplified try.

This is a very flexible recipe and "market veggies" means whatever is in season when you make it. This recipe is nominally for 2-3 but of course the number of eggs and amount of veggies and cheese can vary according to taste and appetite. As reflected in the ingredients used, I made this for a late October breakfast in Massachusetts.

Grate:

1 oz sharp cheddar cheese (1 oz shown in photo)

In a medium size skillet, saute:

1 T olive oil (heat first before adding veggies)
1 clove garlic, finely minced
1 medium red onion, peeled, and cut in bite sized pieces
1 carrot, cut in small strips
2 small poblano peppers, seeds removed and cut in bit sized pieces

8 leaves of kale, coarsely chopped


When veggies are warm and wilted add:

1/2 c pinto beans, drained
1/2 c garbanzo beans, drained
1/4 c salsa

Cook, stirring constantly until beans and salsa are heated through.

While veggies are cooking poach

1 egg per person in water to which

And warm (I use microwave)
2 tortillas per person

When all ingredients are ready, assemble by placing one warm tortilla on each plate and dividing half the vegetable mix to top the tortillas, top with 1/2 the grated cheese divided among the plates, then add second tortilla to stack and repeat topping sequence.  Finish with poached egg and

Cilantro, coarsely chopped.

VARIATION:  Fill soft taco shells with market veggie and bean mixture, grated cheese and coarsely chopped cilantro and a mix of:

1 avocado cut in thin bite sized pieces
1 t lemon juice
Salt to taste
Cumin to taste

This is especially good for lunch.



Reviewed 5/12/17