Almond Olive Oil Cake

When Ed and I were in San Francisco last week we were served a delicious almond cake with raspberry coulis  When I told our hostess how much I enjoyed it, she told me the recipe was from Chez Panisse. She also told me it contained a lot of eggs and butter :-(   Another very special occasion cake.

Soon after,  Casa Moro, requested from the library upon our return from the Alpujarras, arrived, and I found Pastel de Almendras - Almond Cake from which I loosely adapted this recipe.  I used half white and half dark brown sugar, instead of light brown;"egg product" instead of eggs, and added 1/2 t almond extract.  Perhaps, because I did not use real eggs, the cake was not as light as I hoped it might be so I subsequently added 1 t baking powder.  This did not make any appreciable difference.  I'm waiting for a special occasion to use real eggs. Meanwhile, this recipe makes a dense but very good cake.

In their preface to the recipe the authors write: "We find many Spanish puddings very sweet, but we could not finish this chapter without some kind of almond cake.  This one is very simple, but delicious and is made by Hilde ... who lives above our village [in the Alpujarras].  She prepares her almonds by soaking them in boiling water until the skins loosen and can be easily popped off. Almonds prepared this way do have a better flavor, which is preferable for this cake, though not essential."

Line a 9 inch spring-form pan with a piece of parchment paper buttered on both sides. 

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

In a food processor, using the steel blade chop, adding a third at a time so some almonds are ground fine, some medium and some coarse for bite and texture:

7.2 oz blanched almonds

Remove from processor bowl and set aside.  Wipe processor bowl clean and place in bowl with mixing blade:

1/2 c + 2 T extra virgin olive oil
1 c "egg product" (for lighter cake use 4 medium eggs - I do this for company/special occasions)*
2.9 oz dark brown sugar
2.9 oz white sugar
1/2 t almond extract (optional)

Beat until mixture is pale and fluffy and bubbles form, about 5-7 minutes.  The Casa Moro authors comment, speaking, however, of real eggs, "This whisking is important as it beats air into the mixture and makes it light." Then gently fold in (taking care not to knock out any air) all but 2 handfuls of the almonds (First time I did not reserve any almonds (top 2 photos); I now mix in 5 oz and reserve 2 oz) and

3.6 oz white flour, sifted.

Pour into the prepared pan, sprinkle with the remaining almonds and cook for 20 minutes or until the cake is firm and golden brown. Remove and cool on a rack. 


I like this served with fresh figs, pomegranate seeds, rosemary and thyme. 

*November 2011 Update:

A dinner party last night gave me the occasion to try this recipe with real eggs.  The cake was delicious, a bit higher and lighter, not appreciably better than the cakes I made with "egg product", but enough so I will now use eggs for special occasions. I served it with vanilla frozen yogurt topped with a few drops of Aromas Olive Oil and Orange I had gotten at La Oliva in Granada and garnished with figs.












Reviewed 5/11/17

SEPTEMBER

In early September we savored the corn, tomatoes, basil and peppers that were so bountiful at our local farm stands. Ed and I then took off for Spain where we enjoyed among other things more tomatoes and figs that were in full season as well as blackberries that we picked along the hiking trails.

Stay tuned for future posts on tapas surprises, a very special evening at La Oliva in Granada, and hiking and dining in the Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada. One thing I took away from this trip is that the Moorish-Spanish/European fusion found in Andalusia applies not only to architecture (Mudejar) but also to food. Starting with notes from the dinners we had at Las Chimeneas in Mairena, Nevada and the reading I am doing in Sam and Sam Clark's  (Moro) cookbooks, I hope to further explore this hybrid in my own kitchen in the months ahead.

Olives and "black" tomatoes fresh from the barkeep's garden served as tapas at a small restaurant/bar in Mairena.

September 2017:  The closest to "black" tomatoes I have been able to finlocally are the Black Prince tomatoes  which are dark green on the outside but as the tomatoes in the photo, red inside.  These have been our favorites for several years

Trail-side blackberries. It's fine to scrump the figs and berries our inn keeper told us, but don't take any almonds.  The almonds are a market crop while the figs and berries along the Alpujarra trails are not.








Revised 9/19/2017

Cruising the Farmer's Markets

As I mentioned in "About Cook's Cache" food shopping, especially for fresh ingredients, while cruising in Maine can be challenging. Good grocery stores within easy walking distance of harbors are few and far between; and stores which used to be at least marginal now dedicate most of their shelf space to beer, wine and snack food to be purchased at high prices by the passengers the windjammer crews bring ashore.

The emergence of farmer's markets have brought all sorts of wonderful food within easy walking distance of our anchored or moored boat, particularly in Hancock and Knox counties. This year, we first replenished our galley at the Northeast Farmer's Market.  A friend got there early and brought me a huge bag of field greens and another of arugula as well as beets, spring onions and scallions.  Ed grilled the spring onions and we shared them with our friends that evening. When we arrived in Northeast about eleven o'clock, I went to the market to see what was left.  I got some chicken, beef and goat cheese from Sunset Acres Farm and Dairy.  Though the Chicago Tribune article praising their Sea Smoke cheese was prominently displayed, none was left. I purchased some Gaurdian goat cheese which was excellent. I also purchased a box of raspberries from one of the few remaining vendors.

Our real "stock up day" came the following week at the Stonington Farmer's Market.  It opens at ten but lines for various vendors form well before then. We stood in line at the Hackmatack Farm stand where we purchased excellent field greens, very fresh and with some bite similar to the ones (same vendor?) from Northeast Harbor, tiny zucchini and wild Maine blueberries.  Since we came well stocked with maple syrup and Arrowhead Mills Buttermilk Pancake and Waffle Mix (just add water and oil) we not only had blueberries for dessert but on pancakes for several breakfasts. 

While standing in line we inquired about the various bread vendors and were directed to Tinder Hearth where we purchased some excellent sourdough white bread and some sourdough spelt bread. We ate the white bread first and, as the baker promised it would, the spelt bread lasted well for several days as we travelled down the coast.


For eggs, chicken and beef we returned to Sunset Acres Farm and Dairy.  When I inquired about the Sea Smoke goat cheese I had missed at Northeast, the farmer quickly grabbed the last piece of this cheese from a display and handed it to me.  It was indeed delicious. We remembered the great fish truck from last year and returned to get crabmeat (from The Lobster Shack, Stonington, Maine), and local swordfish and tuna.  The vendor told us the crab was very fresh would last for several days; she was correct. Since I had brought miso and wasabi from home we were able to use two of our favorite recipes for the fish:

Tuna Steaks with Wasabi Butter and Salmon with Red Miso Sauce

Our bags full, we walked the mile back to Billings Marine where we had left Condor for our hour and one half round trip excursion to the market.

Reviewed 9/20/2017

Cool Tools

I recently read a couple of articles about Modernist Cuisine and Nathan Myhrvold et all:"Better Cooking through Technology"  by Corby Kummer in the July/August Technology Review  and "Extreme Cuisine" in the June issue of Smithsonian.

I found Kummer's review particularly interesting and came away covetous of the first three volumes of Myhrvold's project: 1. History and Fundamentals, 2. Techniques and Equipment, and 3. Animals and Plants.  Given I'm not  interested in trying deconstructive cooking and the chemicals and additives it often entails as well as the expensive and space consuming equipment it requires, based on Kummer's review I would not spring for volumes 4. Ingredients and Preparations and 5. Plated-Dish Recipes.  Until the first three volumes are available separately or I can justify the $478 and counter space for the set now in its second printing, I am happy to refer to my copy of Harold McGee's  On Food and Cooking and would highly recommend this book to anyone interested in an extensive discussion of the science of food and the techniques of the preparation and cooking (for the bargain price of $22.72).

In discussing Techniques and Equipment, Kummer notes that while much of the equipment in terms of size and expense is currently beyond home use, "The authors do list cool tools that are within the reach of many home cooks, like digital scales and thermometers.... and my favorite all-purpose tool a pressure cooker, something I use almost every night." I second the digital scales and thermometer.

This spring Christopher convinced me that I should acquire some digital scales; a small investment with a great return. While my old scales got me more or less to the closest ounce, these are great for measuring dry ingredients for baking resulting in accurate measurements with much less work. (Note Julia Child's method How to Measure Flour: "All the recipes in this book [Mastering the Art of French Cooking] are based on the following system: Place a flour-measuring cup over a sheet of waxed paper on a flat surface. Sift the flour directly into the cup until it is overflowing. Do not tap the cup or press down on the flour.  Sweep off the excess flour even with the lip of the cup, using the flat part of a knife.  Measure fractional cups and spoonfuls in the same manner."*

It is interesting to note that when I just scoop and level a cup of the flour I usually use (Whole Foods 365 Organic Unbleached White Flour), the weight is ~4.85 oz.  When I sift the flour using the Julia Child method, the weight is 4.05 oz.  The difference, up to .8 oz is shown at left, up to almost 1/4 cup difference. Not only is measuring more accurate but it is also much simpler; place the mixing bowl on the scales and just reset to zero after adding each ingredient.





Also thanks to Christopher for my remote digital thermometer.  It was January 2009 and I had recently overcooked both a Christmas roast and his "birthday roast".  Looking at my instant read thermometer, Christopher asked me how much I had spent for the thermometer and how much for the roast (much less for the thermometer), admonishing, "If you're going to buy good roasts, you really should get a good thermometer." The 2008 elections fresh in his mind, he added, "If you don't mind having a Maverick in the kitchen you should get one of these."  Again another great investment.  I now cook not only beef but fish and chicken as well to temperature, never by time alone.  More on that in a future post.

Finally,  the pressure cooker.  I remember my Mom using one when I was growing up in the pre-microwave days.  I am very tempted to try one again especially since according to Kummer "They [Modernist Cuisine authors] give everyday tips for ways to use the device, including making risotto (a long time guilty secret of time-pressed Italian cooks, who will reveal it only after receiving compliments on how good their risotto is)...." Stay tuned for revised risotto recipes.

 *Mastering the Art of French Cooking,1963 edition, page 17

16 September 2001:  A good discussion of cooking using digital scales is found in in the September 13 edition of the New York Times: "Tipping the Balance for Kitchen Scales". The author notes that in addition to measuring flour (which depending on how it is scooped can weigh from 4 to 6 ounces) these scales are great for determining exact quantities of grated cheese (a "cup" of which can vary greatly depending on the type of grater used), and chopped veggies.

Reviewed 9/23/2017

Orange Poppy Seed Olive Oil Cake

Orange Poppy Seed Bundt Cake is one of my favorites. Interestingly it has never achieved "Birthday Cake Status" in our household but everybody loves it.  I was recently thinking a slice of this cake would be a yummy accompaniment to the fresh peaches now in season.   Then I thought of the stick of butter the recipe calls for :-(  But then I though of my recent success with Chipotle Chocolate - Olive Oil Cake :-) The following recipe draws from these two recipes plus some technique commentary from On Food and Cooking.*


Line a 9 inch form pan with a piece of wax or parchment paper buttered on both sides. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Combine and mix well with an electric hand or stand mixer:

1/4 c + 1T olive oil **
5.5 oz sugar

When well mixed, gradually beat in:

1/2 c "egg product" (or 2 eggs)
1/2 t vanilla
3/4 c - 1 T orange juice ***
Zest of one orange (optional)

Then add together and mix:


6.0 oz flour**
1 1/2 t baking powder
1/2 t baking soda

Finally, mix in by hand:


1/3 c poppy seeds

Before adding the poppy seeds, I often transfer the batter from the blender into the bowl in which I weighed the dry ingredients.  This makes it much easier to capture the most poppy seeds.




Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake at 350 degrees F for 30 to 35 minutes or until a small skewer or broom straw comes out clean when inserted into the center of the cake.  The resultant cake is quite dense with a crisp crust quite similar to the Orange Poppy Seed Bundt Cake. I am working to lighten it a bit*** but notice many olive oil cakes are described as "dense" and some recipes use the technique of adding stiffly beaten egg whites (which would defeat my zero cholesterol goal) to lighten the cake.  I like it with the Orange Glaze (top piece in photo to right), but it is also good and less sweet without the glaze.

OPTIONAL: ORANGE GLAZE

(photo, left: glazed cake with vanilla frozen non-fat yogurt, orange olive oil and rosemary)


When the cake has cooled, using a long toothpick or small metal skewer prick holes in it 1/2 inches apart and brush the following glaze evenly over the top and around the sides. 


In a small sauce pan, combine:


2 T orange juice
2 T sugar


Simmer gently for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until a light syrup forms.

* pages 555-559

** 21 August Revision:  The current recipe has less olive oil and more orange juice resulting in a lighter, less dense cake (photo at left) than the cake made with the previous recipe which called for 1/2 c olive oil and 1/2 c orange juice.






Reviewed 5/11/17

AUGUST

After four weeks of sailing in Maine we came home to find the farm stands full of not only almost everything in season when we left but also corn and all kinds and colors of peppers and tomatoes.

We also returned to a green yard with not much in bloom. I was about to pick more Andromeda for our table when I came across an herb boquet at a local farm stand. Billed as "Parsley, Sage, Rosemary and Thyme (with Miniature Marigolds, Chive, Mint and Garlic Blossoms)", this makes a perfect August centerpiece.  For the past few years I have used potted herbs for centerpieces on our outdoor tables (bringing them indoors in the winter) and often take a bunch of basil, parsley and sage in a ceramic mustard jar to the boat, but this bouquet takes the concept to the next level.

We will enjoy the bouquet as we also enjoy eating a lot of corn, tomatoes and especially Tomato Paella and Linguine with Fresh Tomatoes during the next several weeks.









Reviewed 9/19/2017

JULY - Storing Basil

Just returned from a month of limited internet access and found this still not posted. The photos speak for themselves.  Summer is here. Time for Beet Salad, Pesto, and Fried Zucchini :-)  

August 21 addition: If you are buying, not picking your own basil, and not making pesto, you may find this advice from today's Wall Street Journal useful: "Basil is happiest when it's treated like a delicate hothouse flower. As soon as you get your bunch home, trim about ½ inch off the stems, put the basil in a glass of cold water and put a plastic bag over the setup. Leaving plenty of air around the basil leaves, tie the bag closed around the glass with twine or a rubber band and refrigerate; change the water daily. 

Encased in its greenhouse, really fresh basil will keep for five days or more. Alternatively, you can wrap the trimmed stems in a wet paper towel and store the basil in a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator. Last time we went to the boat I trimmed the stems of the basil, put the leafy portion in a plastic bag and put the stems in container of water(didn't bother with twine or rubber band).  I left the basil in the galley while we were aboard (two days) then put the remaining basil, still in plastic and water, in the ice box while we were gone for a day. The basil was in perfect shape when we returned and for a couple more days out of the ice box until we finished eating it.

Reviewed 6/19/2017