Goat Cheese, Fig, Arugula, and Prosciutto Tapas

This hors d-oeuvre comes from a late night sandwich that Alex and Dan had in Tarragona, Spain in 2014. They along with Henry (then 3 months old) after several tries,finally found a hotel. It was late so Dan went out for sandwiches and came back with one they particularly liked.  Based on the ingredients they subsequently made tapas for a party. What follows is the recipe they kindly shared with me.  Trader Joe's is a one stop source for all the ingredients (though bread availability may vary) and their fig butter is excellent.

Slice a ficelle or very thin baquette into small rounds. Spread each one in this order with:

Goat cheese

Fig butter

Top with a few sprigs of:

Arugula, the smaller the leaves the better

A small piece of prosciutto (omit for vegetarians)

ALTERNATIVE

Return to the source and use same ingredients to make a sandwich.

Avocado Toast

I love avocadoes!  When on a three week business trip to Indonesia many years ago, one of the lunch options was a whole avocado, cut in half with a little seafood salad in the pit hole. Ordered it every day.  Love avocado Tacos, Guacamole, and avovado slices in turkey/chicken sandwiches. When having lunch at Forge Baking Company recently, I ordered the pizza slice. No pizza, but if you want something light, the server suggested, order:
AVOCADO TOAST – Avocado topped with salt, pepper, and olive oil on choice of housemade bread .  
Missed this on the menu because it is actually a breakfast offering (thinking now of the avocadoes offered for breakfst during a trip to Costa Rica), but also available for lunch.  Yum! Why didn't I think of this? So delicious and easy to make.  

Recently, I had a box of fresh basil from Chris's indoor garden, a loaf of Dave's Killer Bread, which I had bought on reccomendations posted on our town "link", and of course, avocadoes, so I improvised accordingly. 

Serves 1, scale accordingly.

Toast
1 large slice of bread.

While bread is toasting, thinly slice lengthwise 
1/2 avocado

Arrange sliced avocado on toasted bread.
(Looked prettier at Forge.  Avocado was very thinly sliced and  arranged in aperfect line on the toast. Think they must have use a slightly firmer avocado.)

Top with

Olive oil, drizzled
Salt (this is a recipe where salt is important!)
Pepper  

Then sprinkle with (addition to Forge recipe)
Basil, coarsley chopped

Silce in half. Enjoy for breakfast and lunch!

Cranberry Orange Brioche

© 2017 Edward C. Kern, Jr.

I decided in the absence of finding my old brioche recipe, I would check out recipes in my more recently acquired cookbooks. How to Cook Everything has an easy looking brioche recipe and The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook, an intriguing recipe for Chocolate Chip Brioche Pretzels.

Using ideas from both, here is the recipe I used this Easter:

In a small bowl wisk together until the yeast has dissolved:

1/3 c milk
1 t instant yeast

(I tried using a fork first but found I really needed to use a whisk to dissolve the yeast).

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment [Smitten Kitchen uses paddle; my engineer son says paddle is not designed for dough --- see * below] place:

9.8 oz (2 1/4 c) flour
2 T sugar
1/2 t salt

Add the yeast mixture and:

2 large eggs, at room temperature, lightly beaten

Mix at at low speed  until the dough comes together in a shaggy pile then turn to medium speed and beat for 10 minutes. [Then switch to the dough hook --- if you are using padddle and your mixer hasn't died] and knead  until a smooth dough forms, another 5 minutes.*

Then add:

8T (1 stick) butter, cut in small slices, at room temperature and continue mixing until a smooth dough forms.

Then add:

1 c dried cranberries
Zest of 1 organic orange

Continue mixing until cranberries and zest are well distributed in the dough.

Turn into a large, well buttered dish, cover with plastic wrap and let sit in a warm place for 2-3 hours until doubled in bulk.  Turn onto a floured board and divide dough into thirds, Roll into three long cylindrical strips and braid. Flatten and shape the loaf then let it rise for about an hour.

Brush with a glaze made of:

1 egg
1 t water

Bake in a 400 degree over for about 1/2 hour. Check after 15-20 minutes,and if the brioche is getting too brown, cover the top with foil. When done the bottom of the brioche when tapped, should sound hollow.

Despite the disruptions in intended technique (see below), the brioche came out well and was shared with Alex and her family Easter morning.  It's the third generation (Henry despite all the chocolate eggs he had already eaten, enjoyed a big slice and part of a colored hard boiled egg before negotiating for another chocolate egg) restart of a tradition and the recipe will no doubt be tested and tweeked before next Easter

© 2017 Edward C. Kern, Jr.

* Full disclosure: The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook starts out using an electric mixer with a paddle attachment at slow speed until the dough becomes a "shaggy pile".  It then directs the speed be raised to medium and the mixture beaten for ten minutes --- "the long mixing time creates the soft, stretchy strands brioche is known for" (page 18).  It then directs a switch to the dough hook for the remainder of the recipe. This is the technique I had intended to use. However, my mixer lasted about two minutes into the long mixing time then crashed (fourth photo from top). Time to improvise. I kneaded by hand for a while though maybe not a full 8 additional minutes then tried not so successfully to knead in the butter by hand. I then switched to my food processor fitted with the dough blade.

Ms. Perelman notes: "Unfortunately I find this to be the rare bread dough that's radically easier to make with a stand mixer. Nevertheless, should you feel up for the challenge, you can vigorously "knead" the dough in a large bowl with a wooden spoon for a good 10 minutes before adding the butter. Yes this takes longer than your average bread dough, but that long kneading time is what yields the long stretchy strands essential to great brioche" (page 18).  Well good brioche this time --- great, I hope, after my mixer gets fixed.

Although in my hurried improvision, I used the dough blade, it turns out the metal blade may in fact be better for bread. This is in fact what Mark Bittman recommends in his recipe for Brioche (page 232) in  How to Cook Everything.  The difference is he adds the yeast with the dry ingredients, processes for 5 seconds. Adds cold butter and eggs and processes for 10 seconds, then with the machine running adds the liquid (in his case both milk and water). He then adjusts with water/flour to get the dough to the right consistnecy.  Using 4 c (18 ounces) of flour his recipe makes about twice the dough as the recipe above.

Reviewed 5/8/17

Looking for a Recipe --- Easter Brioche

The virtues of being a messy cook..... The main purpose of this blog is to organize family recipes, particularly those associated with a special occasion. Alex called a few days ago, surprised the recipe for the "brioche" I used to serve on Easter was not on my blog and asked if I could find it. We haven't had a family Easter morning in many years and it is too buttery a loaf for just Ed and me so I hadn't made the bread in a long time. Even so, I was pretty sure I could find this recipe. Among other things, I kept lists of favorite recipes at the start of each section in my old paper notebook. Oops, no "Brioche" under BREAD.

I thought it was in one of my New York Times cookbooks, but checking all three, I found two brioche recipes ("American" and "French") but both were spotless, no notes, no spilled ingredients and no lingering bookmark.  Very unusual for a recipe I had made so often.  Both recipes called for refrigerating the dough overnight and the "French" recipe called for placing the dough in a bowl, covering with lukewarm water, and letting rise until the ball floats in the water.  I don't remember either technique.

The brioche recipe in The Silver Palate Cookbook was also suspiciously clean, but if I had compared recipes I probably would have chosen it because it used less butter, eggs and sugar than the Times recipes.  None of the recipes suggest braiding the brioche, rather baking in muffin tins or brioche molds (with a top knot of dough), or in loaf pans. Then  I realized I had not checked  The Art of French Cooking. No brioche. In fact I was surprised to find the only entries under bread are "preparation of" (as in cutting off the crusts and making toasted bread cases), "crumbs", "croutes", and "rounds". Viva la Boulangerie!

Photos top to bottom 1994, 1995, 1996

There is always the possibility I used the Christmas Stollen recipe. This recipe is covered with ingredients and notes, for many years I've made this just using raisins (not candied fruit) and the Easter "Brioche" does contain raisins (something lacking in all of the above mentioned brioche recipes).  I checked all my paper recipe collections but am going to keep looking for the recipe with the tell-tale spills and notes (like add raisins, braid). Meanwhile Alex may find her own recipe and I'll add a new potentially traditional recipe to Cook's Cache.





Reviewed 5/8/17

Alex's Almond Pancakes

One Sunday morning this January Henry crawled into bed with me and announced we were having pancakes for breakfast.  Alex's turn to cook.  My pancakes cannot compete with hers. I looked forward to breakfast along with Henry.

This recipe serves 4 adults and 1 pancake loving toddler, with maybe one pancake leftover for a mid-morning snack.

Preheat a pancake griddle, and preheat oven to low (250 degrees F)

In a large bowl, mix together:

3 c all-purpose flour
1 T + 1 1/2 t (4 1/2 t) baking powder
1/2 t salt

Beat together

3 eggs
2 1/4 c milk (may need as much as 3 c milk or combination of milk and yogurt - see beow)
3 T melted butter
1 1/2 t almond extract

Then gently stir in the dry ingredients.  If the batter seems thick, add more milk or yogurt. The thickness of the batter determines the thickness of the pancakes, the more liquid, the thinner the pancakes.

Butter or oil a hot griddle then ladle or pour the mix onto the griddle. Turn pancake when bubbles form across the surface. Adjust heat as necessary, subsequent batches may require less heat then the first batch. When both sides of pancake are browned, remove to the warm platter in the oven and hold until all batter is cooked.

Serve with warm maple syrup.





Reviewed 5/8/17

Egg White Puffed Pancake

If cholesterol is no issue, it is hard to beat Baked German Pancake (right, photo at left, left, photo below) made with real eggs and butter for a weekend breakfast. Over the years I have tried a variation of this pancake using various brands of "egg product", some working better than others in achieving a puffy pancake. Recently the only "egg products" I was able to find were  boxed egg whites.  I searched for advice but could find no on-line recipes for puffy egg-white pancakes so decided to experiment.

Mixing the ingredients together I became skeptical.  Instead of a golden yellow, I had a white batter (see bottom two photos).  What would the finished pancake look like?  Not to worry, the pancake was very puffy and golden brown!  (left, photo above, right photo at left) Of course not as rich tasting as the Baked German but quite delicious with warm maple syrup.  Next time, thinking of Alex's Almond Pancakes, I added some almond extract, a definate plus.

The third iteration (photo at left) was to use fresh egg whites rather than the boxed pastuerized egg whites.  I immediately noticed that the fresh whites have much more body than the boxed whites.* This was evident in the texture of the pancake too.  Not as much body and popover-like texture as the pacake made with whole eggs, but signifagantly more body and texture than the crepe-like pancake made from boxed whites.


Serves 2, maybe 3?

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F.

In a medium bowl combine:

1/2 c all-purpose flour
1/2 c fat-free milk
3/4 c egg whites (preferably from fresh eggs)
1 t almond extract
1 T vegetable oil spread such as Earth Balance

Put cast iron skillet (~9'' diameter) or glass pan  (~6' x 10"/~60" sq) in hot oven. When pan is hot add vegetable oil then return pan to oven until spread is melted but not burned!  Meanwhile beat ingredients well with a whisk until batter is smooth and bubbly. Remove pan from oven and tilt until bottom surface and sides are evenly coated with melted oil. Pour batter into pan and cook until pancake is puffed and brown, about 25 minutes.

Remove from pan, slice into servings and serve with warm maple syrup.          

* Bottom photo shows mixture made with fresh egg whites, 2nd from bottom photo shows mixture maded with boxed egg whites.

Reviewed 5/11/17

Fresh Spring Rolls with Tofu and Mint

2nd Try

As I was writing about Carbondale and Phat Thai I began to crave  "FRESH SPRING ROLLS with TOFU mint & cellophane noodles herbs | sweet chili sauce".  If I were still in Carbondale, I know where I'd go for dinner. However, since I'm ~2,200 miles away, I decided to try to make them myself. Having just a vague idea about the wrapping and no idea what "cellophane noodles" are, I looked to Google search for help.  For buying rice paper (and even learning how rice paper is made) and detailed instructions and options for wrapping spring rolls,  I found Viet World Kitchen very useful.

1st Try

After just two tries, this is still a work in progress. The bad news is as a beginner it is not easy to get perfect looking rolls every time.  The good news is, as Viet World Kitchen points out, "If you mess up, remember that rice paper is forgiving. Plus, an 8- or 12-ounce package contains plenty of papers for you to practice with in your initial forays. Boo-boos are yours to eat!"  As you can see from my photos, I'm still in the "boo-boo" phase; however, though the rolls may not look perfect, they are still very tasty. 

I got all the necessary Asian ingredients at Whole Foods: Galettes de Riz Spring Roll Skin (6 " diameter, Vietnam), China Bowl Cellophane Noodles (Taiwan) and Mae Ploy Sweet Chili Sauce (Thailand).  Not much of a choice so I took what was available and hoped Whole Foods had done some vetting.  Next time I am in an Asian market I plan to try to find some Three Ladies brand rice paper (bánh tráng).   


NOW THE  "RECIPE"    
Makes ~ 10 rolls

8 oz extra firm tofu**

Remove the 16 oz block of tofu from the container, cut in half lengthwise and return 8 oz to the container and reserve for future use.  Place the 8 oz piece on dishtowel, cover and place weight (I use a brick covered with aluminum foil, heavy cans work too) on top to squeeze out excess moisture. Let sit ~30 minutes.

In a small pan half filled with boiling water place:

1 7/8 oz. (half a package) cellophane noodles *

Turn off the heat and let the noodles sit for 10 minutes.

While noodles are soaking prepare the herbs. Phat Thai's spring rolls are strong on mint and also contain other "herbs".  While I mostly remember the mint I think the other herbs included cilantro and Thai basil. Since Ed is not a big mint fan, I use less mint and more of the other herbs.  Adjust quantities of each according to availability and personal taste.    

REVISED 30 APRIL 2012 - The first two times I made these rolls, I coarsely chopped the herbs (herbs left, photos of rolls above), subsequently I have left the leaves mostly whole, as I recall Phat Thai does.  The first time, I did not roll the rolls tightly enough; they looked okay but they were impossible to eat as they fell apart after the first bite. I have found rolls made with the whole leaves and rolled tightly hold together very well, and also I think their appearance is superior to those made with chopped herbs.

Assemble:
~ 2 oz mint leaves
~ 1 oz cilantro leaves
~1 oz Thai basil (I did not have so used regular basil) leaves

Be sure that all stems are removed from the herbs as they will puncture the thin skin of the rice paper. I learned this lesson the hard way.  Tear very large leaves in half, leave most or all whole.  Divide evenly into 10 "portions" weighing ~0.2 oz (~6 grams) each. 

When it is well drained cut the tofu into 10 equal pieces perpendicular to the longest dimension. When the noodles have soaked for 10 minutes, drain.  

Fill a pie plate half full of tap water.  Dip

1 piece rice paper (10 needed altogether) 

on one side then on the other.  Shake off excess water and place the rice paper on a plate or cutting board.  Let rice paper sit for  30 - 60 seconds until it is pliable and transparent. I work with two pieces of paper at a time.

Place a few noodles, ~ 1/2 one "portion" of the herbs, a tofu strip, a few more noodles, and then the remaining herbs in the "portion" on the bottom half of the rice paper circle, far enough down so that when the bottom lip is rolled over the filling, half of the circle remains. The long length of the leaves should parallel the rolling axis.   It looks like a lot of filling, but if you press the leaves down when rolling they will really condense. 

After rolling the bottom up over the top, fold in each side (photo at left) Then continue rolling until all the rice paper is wrapped around the filling. Be sure to roll very tightly, compressing the leaves as much as possible. For excellent photos of this process see Viet World Kitchen.

Not yet having my own recipe for dipping, I used the Mae Ploy Sweet Chili Sauce which is similar to the sauce made at Phat Thai.

© 2013 Edward C Kern, Jr.

* March 2013 Update: Ed and I just got back from Colorado and two visits to Phat Thai. Green Chicken Curry is as good as ever.  Spring Rolls (photo left) good too but a bit different than I remembered.  Piece of tofu is comparatively large and is wrapped in a few small tender leaves of Boston/Butter lettuce along with a bit of basil, cilantro and mint and some shredded carrots. No cellophane noodles noticable. Since then I've made with lettuce instead of noodles, tasty and a step easier.

** January 2014: Super-firm tofu, a relatively new product, does not require pressing and can be used directly out of the package.

Reivewed 5/15/17

Green Chopsticks Potstickers

Fast food! Starting from scratch is seldom the easiest method and, for me at least, sometimes not the best.  A few months ago Costco had a promotion with samples of Green Chopsticks Potstickers and dumplings.  I liked both the chicken and pork  but decided to buy  2 bags of the chicken potstickers as they were much lower in fat* than the pork ones.  I choose the potstickers over the dumplings as I preferred their filling to dough ratio.

I have made potstickers and dumplings in the past but from a traditional recipe.  The ingredients in the filling of the Green Chopsticks potstickers are an imaginative combination of chicken breast, tofu, onion, sweet potato noodle, green cabbage, green onion, leek, shitake mushroom, oyster sauce, evaporated cane juice, soy sauce, salt, garlic, ginger, and jalapeno. Nom! The potstickers contain no msg or preservatives and the chicken is noted to be hormone and antibiotic free. The dough is thin and delicate, unlike the heavier, tougher dough found in varying degrees in most other packaged potstickers or for that matter restaurant potstickers.

The package gives three cooking options: boiling, frying or microwaving.  I use a combination of two, first microwaving on high for 2 minutes per 6 -7 potstickers and then frying the potstickers in peanut oil. I use a flat bottom frying pan large enough to hold all of the potstickers, flat in one layer and heat just enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan. As the oil is heating I sometimes add scallions (see below for preparation) and then when the oil is hot add the potstickers.   Perhaps because the dough is thin and less sticky these are not pot stickers; in fact just gently shaking the pan will cause the potstickers to slide back and forth.  When the potstickers are lightly browned (about 3-5 minutes), remove them from the pan and use a paper towel to remove excess oil.  Serve with dipping sauce.

[UPDATE:  Right after I posted this, I called one of the larger Whole Foods in Massachusetts to check on availability as my supply is running low, and I could not find them in our local Whole Foods or Costco. When I found they were not available there either, I called  Green Chopsticks, which is located in California. I was told their products are "in the process of being introduced on the East Coast"  :-(    So references to availability at Costco and Whole Foods in the last paragraph in the above link do not currently apply in many regions.  Hopefully soon.  Stay tuned.]

DIPPING SAUCE
Although this too can be purchased ready made (bottle of one of my favorite dipping sauces at far left in photo), I usually make my own version.

Mix:
1/4 c soy sauce
1/4 c rice vinegar (I buy the Marukan sodium free, sugar free)
1/2 - 1 t red pepper flakes, to taste
1 t sugar
1/4 c scallions, thinly sliced
1 t ginger, grated

Sometimes, especially if I am going to save some of the sauce, I combine the first 4 ingredients and then add the grated ginger and scallions to the individual dipping dishes.

PREPARING THE SCALLIONS
Wash and remove the roots of the scallions (~2 scallions per person).  Thinly slice some of the green end and reserve for the dipping sauce. If the scallions are small, slice greens in rings; if larger cut in strips then slice.  Cut the rest of the scallion in half lengthwise and then in half crosswise close enough to the white end so that the pieces in each half remained joined. Dry the scallions before frying.  Even dried, the scallions contain enough moisture to cause a great deal of spattering of the hot oil.  I think they are tasty enough to warrant the mess.

* 1.5 g/100g or 4 potstickers - no saturated or trans fat

Reviewed 5/15/17

Farmer's Market Huevos Rancheros

One of my most favorite things to do when visiting Alex and Dan in Portland (OR) is to visit the Saturday Farmer's Market.  The awesome mushrooms, the roasted peppers, toasted hazelnuts, not to mention all the fresh veggies, fish, meat, cheeses, breads, flowers....  Now I have one more good reason: breakfast.  There was a line, but we decided it was worth a wait to get breakfast at Verde Cocina (a stand in the Farmer's Market but now also a cafe).  Ed and I ordered Huevos Rancheros  (photo below, right) and Alex and Dan ordered Buenos Dias Breakfast (photo below, lower left) .  While we waited, we watched the "lots of market veggies" cook on the huge skillet.

The Huevos Rancheros - inspired by all the local veggies - were awesome .  When we returned home I picked up some of my neighbor's eggs and decided to give this a simplified try.

This is a very flexible recipe and "market veggies" means whatever is in season when you make it. This recipe is nominally for 2-3 but of course the number of eggs and amount of veggies and cheese can vary according to taste and appetite. As reflected in the ingredients used, I made this for a late October breakfast in Massachusetts.

Grate:

1 oz sharp cheddar cheese (1 oz shown in photo)

In a medium size skillet, saute:

1 T olive oil (heat first before adding veggies)
1 clove garlic, finely minced
1 medium red onion, peeled, and cut in bite sized pieces
1 carrot, cut in small strips
2 small poblano peppers, seeds removed and cut in bit sized pieces

8 leaves of kale, coarsely chopped


When veggies are warm and wilted add:

1/2 c pinto beans, drained
1/2 c garbanzo beans, drained
1/4 c salsa

Cook, stirring constantly until beans and salsa are heated through.

While veggies are cooking poach

1 egg per person in water to which

And warm (I use microwave)
2 tortillas per person

When all ingredients are ready, assemble by placing one warm tortilla on each plate and dividing half the vegetable mix to top the tortillas, top with 1/2 the grated cheese divided among the plates, then add second tortilla to stack and repeat topping sequence.  Finish with poached egg and

Cilantro, coarsely chopped.

VARIATION:  Fill soft taco shells with market veggie and bean mixture, grated cheese and coarsely chopped cilantro and a mix of:

1 avocado cut in thin bite sized pieces
1 t lemon juice
Salt to taste
Cumin to taste

This is especially good for lunch.



Reviewed 5/12/17

Strawberry Short (Pan)cakes

1996

One of the few times a year I buy whipping cream is strawberry season.  In addition to Strawberry Shortcake I use it to make one of Christopher's favorite breakfasts - pancakes with strawberries, maple syrup and whipped cream. Since I most often make pancakes on the boat I use a mix, Arrowhead Mills Buttermilk Pancake and Waffle Mix*.  While this mix is good using just vegetable oil and water, if I have skim milk available, I use the milk instead of water. When making this on board a whipped cream maker is especially useful.

Alternate pancakes with sliced, slightly mashed strawberries and top with whipped cream and maple syrup.  This is also good with frozen sliced, mashed strawberries.

December 2013: Leftover strawberries and cream again beg for pancakes and maple syrup....

Strawberry stains on that crisp blue shirt? See Make Strawberry Stains Vanish.

* May 2017: For pancakes from scratch see Alex's Almond Pancakes.





Reviewed 5/12/17

Crisp Pita Bread with Blue Cheese, Pears and Maple Walnuts

Last week I took my Mom to see the "Chihuly: Through the Looking Glass" exhibit and the new Art of the Americas Wing at the Boston Museum of Art, and she reciprocated by taking me to lunch at the museum's New American Cafe.  I had Flatbread with Great Hill Blue Cheese, Pears and Maple Walnuts which came with a salad of spring greens.  It was so tasty....

Serves 2

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Make a batch or two of Maple Walnuts.

Separate the two sides of :

a piece of pita bread

Place the bread on a cutting board.  Place one hand firmly on the bread and with the other hand cut around the circumference of the bread with a sharp knife.  Place the two halves on a baking sheet or for a crispier toast, a perforated pizza pan. Lightly spray the bread with:

olive oil

and place in preheated 400 degree F oven.  Cook for about 4 minutes, checking frequently, until the edges just begin to brown. The flatbread I had at the New American Cafe was not as browned or crispy; for a softer bread cook less. Remove from the oven and top each piece, in this order, with:

thinly sliced blue cheese (I found and used the local Marion, MA Great Hill Blue, shown in top photo)

very thinly sliced pear (half a pear will serve 2)
~ 1 T maple walnuts

Return to oven for ~2 minutes or until the cheese is well melted and the pears are soft. Remove from the oven and cut in quarters.

Serve topped with greens or micro-greens.





Reviewed 7/11/2017